How to Fit a Pocket Door: The Ultimate Space-Saving Solution

Pocket doors are a smart and stylish way to save space in your home, making them an ideal solution for tight areas where a traditional swinging door just isn’t practical. The best part is, this is a project that most competent DIYers can tackle. With some basic tools and skills, installing a pocket door is absolutely achievable, especially if you’re building a new partition wall from scratch.

Pocket doors work particularly well in en-suites, pantries, utility rooms, and other spaces where every millimetre matters. Fitting one is often easier than it looks, especially during a renovation or when constructing new internal stud walls, which is exactly what I’ll be covering in this article.

If you’re thinking about installing a pocket door into an existing wall, that’s a different story. It can be done, but walls with plumbing, electrical wiring, or structural elements can make it far more complex or even unfeasible. I’ll cover that scenario in a separate guide.

To start, it’s worth noting that this isn’t an overly complicated project, thanks in large part to the range of high-quality pocket door systems and framing kits now available. In simple terms, you just need to design your stud wall around the dimensions of the pocket door frame, secure the frame in place, and then finish with plasterboard and trim.

In this guide, I’ll take you through the step-by-step process of fitting a pocket door, from planning and preparation to finishing touches, so you can decide whether it’s the right solution for your space and skill level.

Planning Your Pocket Door Installation (New Partition Wall Only)

1. Choose the Right Location

Start by identifying where you want your pocket door. Remember, the door will need to slide fully into the wall cavity, so ensure you have enough uninterrupted wall space next to the opening. This space needs to be at least the same width as the door itself.

2. Select a Suitable Pocket Door Kit

Pocket door systems are available in standard sizes to suit common door widths, and most are designed for use with 125mm (or deeper) stud walls. Check the specifications carefully to ensure compatibility with your chosen door and the wall you’re constructing. Most kits come with a complete frame system, while others require you to build part of the framing yourself.

3. Design the Stud Wall to Suit

Because the pocket door will need to slide into a hollow frame, the wall design must accommodate this. That means:

• Ensuring the wall section fits both the doorway and the ‘pocket’. Normally 95mm or thicker.
• Ensuring the wall is non-load-bearing—pocket doors should not be fitted into structural walls.
• Leaving the pocket area clear of insulation, electrical wiring, or plumbing.

4. Plan Ahead for Finishes and Fixtures

Think about how the finished wall will look. Will the door be flush or have architrave? Do you need to leave space for light switches or sockets? Most installation kits will come with a jamb kit to finish the enclosure of the door opening.

Framing the Stud Wall and Fitting the Pocket Door (~120mm Thick Wall)

When building a new partition wall to house a pocket door, precision is key—especially when you’re working to a specific wall thickness. In this case, your total wall thickness will be approximately 120mm, made up of:

• 89mm timber studs
• 2 x 12.5mm plasterboard (one layer per side)
• Approx. 3mm skim plaster each side

This is a standard thickness for many pocket door kits, but always double-check the kit’s specifications before you begin.

Step-by-Step Pocket Door Framing and Installation

1. Mark Out the Wall Position

Start by marking the exact position of your new wall on the floor, ceiling, and adjacent walls. Use a spirit level or laser level to ensure everything is square and plumb.

2. Cut and Fix the Floor and Ceiling Plates

• Cut two lengths of 89mm x 38mm timber (CLS is commonly used).
• Fix one to the floor and one directly above it on the ceiling to form your base and head plates.
• Use a suitable fixing method depending on your floor/ceiling type (screws and plugs for masonry, wood screws for timber joists).

3. Plan for the Pocket Door Opening

• Your pocket door kit will specify the rough opening size, which is usually twice the door width plus an allowance for the frame and clearances. For example, a 762mm (2’6”) door often needs an opening of around 1560mm–1600mm wide.
• Mark this out carefully on your floor and head plates.
• Don’t forget to allow for header height, which includes the door height, any track system, and the floor finish. Pocket door kits will specify this in the instruction manual.

4. Frame the Pocket Area

• Pocket door kits often come with a metal cavity frame that replaces traditional studs in the pocket area.
• Ensure no electrical cables, pipes, or insulation run through the pocket area.
• Secure the pocket frame to the floor and head plates.
• On either side of the pocket, fix vertical studs to frame the door opening.
• Fix a solid timber header across the top of the opening (above the track) if not already provided with the kit. This can be doubled up for added strength.

5. Frame the Rest of the Wall

• Space your studs at 400mm or 600mm centres (depending on plasterboard size and your preference).
• Continue the frame beyond the pocket section as you would with a standard stud wall.
• Add noggins (horizontal bracing) where needed, especially if you’ll be fixing anything like switches or sockets outside the pocket zone.

6. Construct the Pocket Door Track and Frame

• Most pocket door frames are delivered flat-packed. It’s now time to build the frame following the manufacturer’s instructions.
• In our example, the door frame measures 1494x2115mm (WxH)
• Check it is level and fully supported.

7. Install the Pocket Frame in the Wall

• Slide the frame into the opening between the studs, aligning it with the finished floor level and door opening width.
• Fix the pocket frame securely to the floor, head plate, and any surrounding studs using the screws or brackets supplied.
• Make sure everything is level and plumb. A twisted or out-of-square frame will cause your door to bind or not close properly.

8. Fix Plasterboard Over the Pocket

• Fit 12.5mm square edge plasterboard on each side of the wall to cover the framework of the pocket hole door and stud-work framing.
• When fixing plasterboard over the pocket section, use short screws that won’t penetrate into the door cavity—many kits have pre-marked fixing rails.
• Avoid screwing into the sliding track or any part of the door mechanism.

9. Plaster the Wall

• Once boarded, apply joint tape and plaster skim as you would with any stud wall.
• I tend to leave this part to someone with more experience for a tidier job.

Fitting the Pocket Door

Once the wall is plastered and dry, it’s time for the satisfying part, hanging the door.

1. Prepare the Door

• Trim the door to height if necessary (check your kit’s maximum thickness and weight limits).
• Fit any required door hardware now, such as rollers, top hangers and door furniture.

2. Hang the Door on the Track

• Most pocket door kits use a clip-on or hook-on roller system.
• Slide the door into the cavity and attach it to the rollers inside the track.
• Check that it glides smoothly and adjust the height and position using the adjustment bolts if necessary.

3. Fit Door Jambs

• Install the floor guide (usually provided with the kit) at the bottom of the door opening. This keeps the door stable and stops it swinging.
• Fit soft-close mechanisms or door stops if included.

4. Install Architrave and Finishing Trims

• Once the door is fitted and working smoothly, you can add architrave or finishing trims around the opening.
• Be careful not to fix anything that restricts the door’s movement or access to the track (some systems have removable covers for future maintenance).

And that pretty much concludes the installation of these amazing pocket door systems. Hopefully, I’ve provided you with sufficient information to tackle this job yourself.

Tools You’ll Need

To complete this project smoothly, make sure you have the following tools on hand:

• Tape measure – for accurate framing and door sizing
• Pencil & straight edge – for marking cut lines and wall layout
• Spirit level / laser level – essential for keeping everything square and plumb
• Drill/driver – for securing studs, frame, and track
• Screwdriver set – for fitting hardware and making fine adjustments
• Handsaw or circular saw – to cut timber studs and plates
• Plasterboard saw – for trimming boards around the pocket frame
• Utility knife – for scoring plasterboard and trimming
• Plastering tools – including jointing knife, hawk, trowel, and sanding block
• Stud finder (optional) – useful for avoiding services when locating wall positions
• Wood chisel and hammer – for notching or tweaking tight fits if needed
• Step ladder – for ceiling plate and track installation
• Personal protective equipment (PPE) – gloves, goggles, and dust mask

Check your pocket door kit too—some include special brackets, fixings, or tools.

Conclusion

As you can see, this installation isn’t overly challenging, and it’s very rewarding. Take your time, pay close attention to detail, and you’ll provide the best results. Sliding doors can be a great addition to any interior space, but the pocket door system is by far my favourite.

If you’re considering adding a pocket door to an existing wall, keep an eye out; I’ll be covering that trickier retrofit scenario in a separate article soon.

Good luck with your build, and enjoy the extra space your new pocket door unlocks!